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#16 Starting Problems
If a car won't start, or the starter turns the engine very slowly, the first suspect is that the battery is low or dead. Try a jump start from another car. Be sure the jumper cables go from POS to POS and from NEG to NEG. It may help to run the engine of the car with the good battery. If the cause of the low battery is found (i.e., lights left on) then the problem is solved. Charging the battery (i.e., running the engine) for 10-20 minutes will put enough charge in the battery to start the engine. Corroded battery connections can make the battery appear to be dead, or can cause erratic starting (sometimes will start, sometimes won't start). Another symptom is that the connectors will become hot while trying to start the engine. |
Corroded connections can be temporarily fixed by slightly rotating the connectors on the battery terminals (if they will rotate) with a pair of pliers. This causes the connectors to dig into the battery posts and make better electrical contact.
To permanently fix this problem remove the connectors and clean the inside of the connectors and the battery terminals with a knife or sandpaper, or with a wire brush terminal cleaner. Be very careful to not get any corrosion on your clothes or in your eyes, as it is very corrosive. It will burn holes in clothing and will burn skin and eyes. Wash thoroughly after doing this job. If the problem persists, then either the battery or the alternator is bad. See the sections on "Batteries" and on "Alternators". |
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#15 Brakes
Most cars have disk brakes on the front and drum brakes on the back. Most of the braking is done by the front brakes. Disk brakes are more efficient than drum brakes and are not as susceptible to 'fading' during heavy braking. Front brakes pads typically last 30,000 miles, more or less, depending on the design and on the driver's braking habits. Rear brakes shoes last around 100,000 miles, more or less. The only sure way to know when brakes need servicing is to remove the tires (and drums in the rear) and inspect the pads and shoes. The front pads usually have a small metal spring that is supposed to start rubbing on the disks and squealing when the pads are about worn out. But it doesn't work a lot of the time. And also, disk brakes are prone to squealing even when they are perfectly fine. If you hear a metal-on-metal grinding when braking, a brake pad or shoe is completely worn out, and MUST be serviced immediately. |
The metal-on-metal grinding will very quickly cut grooves into the disk or drum. The disk or drum will, at the least, have to be machined, and may have to be replaced, adding $40-$100 to the repair bill.
Repeated heavy braking may warp the front disk rotors. Then you will feel a 'wobbling' or 'pulsating' during braking. The fix is to machine the rotors, if the warpage is not too bad, or to replace the rotors. Remember that brakes work by wearing out. They are a consumable item, like gas and oil and tires. However, you can greatly reduce brake wear by 'planning ahead' in your driving. Watch traffic lights some distance ahead and adjust speed to arrive when the light is green. Start slow-downs and stops some distance away, coasting to the stop with minimal brake pressure. Try to avoid heavy braking from high speeds. |
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#14 Alternator
The alternator provides all the electricity for the car when the engine in running, and also keeps the battery charged. If the alternator fails the car will get its electricity from the battery, until the battery runs down. You can check whether the alternator is working if your car has a voltmeter (often labeled "battery"). Note the voltmeter reading before starting the engine. Then start the engine and note the reading. It should be a little higher. If it doesn't change the alternator is not working. Another way to check the alternator (at night) is to turn on the headlights, preferably shining on a wall (engine not running). Note the brightness on the wall. Then start the engine while watching the headlight brightness. |
The lights should become noticably brighter. If the brightness stays the same the alternator is not working. Try this when you know the alternator is working properly so you'll know what it should look like.
A car will run quite a distance with only the battery providing electricity (i.e., the alternator failed). But headlights, heater, windshield wipers, and the starter will run the battery down quite fast. If the windshield wipers and/or turn signals become noticably slower while driving, or if the headlights become dim when driving at night, you can be certain that the alternator has failed, and the car is running on only the battery. Find a convenient place to stop, because the car will only run another 10-30 minutes. |
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#13 Wax and Polish
Waxing and polishing a car serves two purposes. It makes the car look prettier, and it preserves the paint. A car develops tiny holes in the paint from flying rocks, debris, and whatever. If left unattended water gets into these holes and soon rust spots develop. |
Another favorite place for rust to develop is in the dirt that accumulates under the trim pieces. When applying the wax, massage it into the finish to fill these holes, and also work it into all the cracks around the trim pieces.
Wax your car at least once a year, and preferably twice a year. |
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#12 Batteries
Most car batteries have six caps that can be pryed out to check the electrolyte level. Check the level once a year. Add DISTILLED water to bring the level up to about one inch from the top. Don't get electrolyte on anything, ESPECIALLY EYES. |
Electrolyte will eat holes in clothing and will burn skin. If you do get any
on you rinse it quickly and thoroughly with water. I like Delco Dura-Power batteries because they are sealed and do not need to be, and cannot be, checked. |
| #11 Tire Care DON'T LET TIRES WEAR UNTIL THEY ARE BALD!!! This is for safety reasons. Tires need tread in order to get traction on the road, especially in water, snow, and ice. Bald/little tread tires will hydroplane. I've had bad tires on the rear hydroplane on wet roads and the car begins to fishtail uncontrollably. SCARY! The absolute minimum tread depth is 1/16 inch (I recommend minimum 1/8 inch). |
A process called "siping", which is making many small cuts across the tire tread,
is supposed to increase tire traction (and safety). Rotate tires front-to-rear or in an "X" pattern every 10,000 miles to spread out the wear evenly. The recommended tire pressure for almost all radial tires is 35 psi. |
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#10 Clutch Care
The clutch is a consumable item, and costs ~$500 to replace. But with care you can make it last much longer. I have made clutches last up to 200,000 miles. The clutch has to slip, when starting from a stop and when shifting gears, but minimizing this slip is the key to long clutch life. When the clutch is completely in or out it is not slipping. |
The worst clutch abuse comes from holding the clutch part-way in to make the car go slower. Under this condition the clutch is continually slipping, and a lot of wear is occuring. To lengthen clutch life baby the clutch. No "jack-rabbit" starts, ease the clutch out when shifting, and never "pop" the clutch. |
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#9 Standard (Stick Shift) Transmissions
Normally, standard transmission fluid never needs to be changed over the life of the car. Check the level about every 50,000 miles, or if you suspect leakage. Standard transmissions are normally trouble-free for the life of the car. |
Older standard transmissions used thick S.A.E. 80-90 weight gear oil. Newer car standard tranmissions use ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Check the user manual for the type of ATF fluid to use (there are several types). |
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#8 Keys
Label and keep your original car keys in a safe place at home. Make copies and use only the copies as your working keys. Have the copies made at a key shop, not the local hardware store or K-Mart/Wall-Mart. Key shops tend to make more exact copies. |
Always make copies from the original--copies made from copies accumulate inaccuracies and soon they won't work at all (just like video copies made from video copies). Carry an extra key in your wallet or purse--for those times when the kids lock the car with the keys in it. |
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#7 Overheating
The heat gage should run 1/3 to 1/2 under normal conditions. On hot days on hills or in heavy traffic it might get up to 2/3 or 3/4. Anything higher is cause for concern and probably will seriously damage the engine. Here are some common causes, in order of probability.
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#6 Cooling System
Many manufacturers recommend replacing the anti-freeze every year. I've never done this. I do recommend putting in a pint of anti-freeze reconditioner every other year to renew the anti-freeze lubricating and anti-rust features. |
As a precaution, I recommend flushing the cooling system and replacing the thermostat and anti-freeze every 100,000 miles. |
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#5 Automatic Transmission Fluid
A lot of variation in manufacturer recommendations here. Some say you never need to change the fluid under normal conditions, then you find out the expensive way ($1600 overhaul) that you should have changed it. To be on the safe side I recommend changing the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles. Check the fluid every 10,000 miles. |
The fluid is normally reddish, but turns brown if it burns due to hot, heavy use. If it does turn brown, change it immediately, it is no longer lubricating the transmission. There are several types of automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Check your user's manual to get the proper type for your car. |
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#4 Documents
Make sure you have the following documents in your car(s) at all times:
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These are required in Utah, and probably in most states. Insure that they are current. |
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#3 Oil Changes
Most car manufacturers say to change oil every 3,000 miles, and change the oil filter every other oil change. Most people can't keep track of these changes, so they change oil, well . . . every so often. Here's an easy way to keep track of oil changes. Change the oil every 5,000 miles, at 10,000 and 5,000 mile intervals. |
So you would change oil at 35,000, 40,000, 45,000, etc. To compensate for the longer intervals, change the oil filter every oil change. I have been doing this for 30 years, and my cars regularly last over 200,000 miles. |
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#2 Maintenance Record
Keep a record of the maintenance on each of your cars. I find this best done in a little notebook, about 4" x 6". Keep the notebook where it won't get lost or trashed, in the glove compartment, or if that's not good, keep it in a safe place in the house. |
For each event, make an entry like this:
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#1 Receipts
Keep all your receipts for car maintenance and parts. Write the date, check number, and odometer reading on each receipt. Keep the receipts in a file folder in the house. |
DON'T KEEP THEM IN THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT--BECAUSE THEY WON'T STAY. This is especially important for things like tires, batteries, and major maintenance, where you may have to make a warranty claim. |